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» New user! Help with iacv, bearing, smoking exhaust
moisesanguiano
 Posted: Aug 10 2017, 06:23 AM
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Hi all! First off I would like to thank you all for the help ive gotten from reading through this forum. It has helped me very much with my new (used) car. Now then, some background. I recently learned how to drive stick, and i just had to get a stick car. So after some looking through craigslist, letgo, offerup etc, i came across a 1997 Aspire, 4 door hatch in red. For $600 i couldnt say no so i snatched it up and drove it home. Fast forward about 2 months to present day, ive done 2 oil changes, new plugs, cleaned out egr and idle air vavle, stripped and cleaned out top half of intake manifold, couple of seafoam treatments, cold air intake, new tires, new battery, new speedo cable, shifter bushings, new thermostat and just replace one of the rear wheel hubs cause my last one somehow locked up while i was driving and fused the spindle, wheel bearings, and brake drum together. The car drives alot better than i thought it would ever run, but there are a few minor issues i need help with. First one is my idle air control valve. Its throwing CEL code P0505. It seemed to have worked fine when i first got the car (i live in california, and it passed smog surprisingly), but about 2 weeks ago, when the cel first came on and threw the code, i noticed the iacv intake hose separated from the main intake hose/boot. So i patched the hose, and that same day i also installed the cold air intake, in which i actually took off the stock air box and attached a cone air filter to the MAF. Well about two days later, the code came back. I thought that maybe the cold air intake was throwing off the iacv (maybe not enough vacuum since there was too little resistance, idk tongue.gif) so i put the stock air box back on. Sure as sh*t, 2 days later the code came back. Another thing i should add, code P1797 would come on once in awhile along with p0505, but it hasnt came on for a while, so im not really worried about that one (unless they're connected?) I cleaned the iacv a few more times, but everytime i clear the code, it comes back a day or two later. Another issue, the car is throwing out smoke from the exhaust. It smokes more when started cold, but once it warms up, it only smokes when i hit the gas and rev it up high. The smoke isnt thick, and it seems to have a blue tint to it, so im going with its burning oil. Ive narrowed it down to valve seals or piston rings. Ive already got the seals, so ill be installing them soon anyways, but i would like input from you guys with your opinions. Im also leaking coolant from what i believe is the water pump, but ive had no luck taking off the crank pulley to get the timing belt off to get to the water pump. I put in some stop leak to minimize the leaking, but at this point im probably going to take it to a shop and have them put in the water pump if I can't figure out a way to take off that darn pulley. Also, im getting a loud humming noise coming from the front end when i go around 30+ mph. I suspect one (or both) of the front wheel bearings are going out, but again would like to hear what you guys have to say. Those are some of the main issues i want to try to work on. Any and all input is appreciated. Thanks again everyone!

One more thing. Random question, but why is the Aspire nicknamed the egg? Haven't figured that one out haha. rolleyes.gif
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Tdk420
 Posted: Aug 10 2017, 08:33 AM
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Welcome to the forum sounds like a cool buy the crankshaft pully bolt is not fun I use a big ###### 3/4 electric impact with like 700 ft pounds it works every time !

Check your vacuum lines for cracks or splits and check your charcoal canister t might cause your cel prob good luck and get some pics of the car up

Tdk420

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moisesanguiano
 Posted: Aug 10 2017, 02:36 PM
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Thanks for the reply Tdk420! Ill check the canister. Thats one on the passenger side firewall right? And how do i go about getting pics up? Looks like i need a photobucket
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Blurple95
 Posted: Aug 10 2017, 05:48 PM
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For some reason, these little cars are a bit hard on wheel bearings. There is a backing plate that sometimes gets left off when changing them out at a shop, and if that happens they'll go out super-duper quick again.

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moisesanguiano
 Posted: Aug 10 2017, 08:31 PM
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Blurple95, i did read up on those backing plates/ shims for the front bearings. Whenever i get around to changing them out, ill keep a lookout for those. Tdk420, i checked the canister and all the lines seem fine. Theres a barbed tee with an open end coming up from the bottom of the car, but i think i read on here somewhere that one of the ends should be open. I checked on the iacv again. When its plugged in (after warm up) the idle is a little high. Sometimes itll settle down to normal, but most of the time its high. When its unplugged, idle stays consistently normal, but when i turn the ac on, the idle drops and the engine almost stalls, but doesnt. So today, i took off the iacv intake hose where it meets the main intake hose. When the iacv is plugged in, the iacv hose pulls lots of air into it, but when its unplugged, it still pulls air but not as much. Is that normal? Im thinking maybe the valve is stuck open? Would you guys advise taking the whole iacv apart to do a thorough cleaning? One of the screws looks like it needs one of those specialty bits but havent tried removing it. I really wanna trying everything i can to salvage this iacv before heading down to pick n pull to grab another.
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Glow_Mouse
 Posted: Aug 11 2017, 06:04 PM
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Wow a novel and a half to read. Uhm well first off, welcome
Secondly, To remove the crank shaft pulley, I used a breaker bar
an the car itself to crack that sucker off. Because the crank nut is
a reverse thread and it appears once you try to turn er' off , just
turns the shaft itself. Attach the breaker bar, You'll want the bar fairly
long so it wedges between the car and the ground. Get in the spire, turn
it over slowly, like two or three turns of the key and listen for the nut
to go crack. Then get out and check, if it isn't loose, go again.

Now with your timing, On the cam pulley, there are 2 carve marks. Ensure
that these marks are at positions 12' and 3'. In o'clock going clockwise of
course and the crank shaft will have one marking so ensure that is at position
12' too. Be very careful removing the keyway off the spline. Normally they
should simply come out with a bit of a shove but mine was so darn tight I
had to get rough with it. Rip that water pump off, get a new one with gasket,
check your radiator hoses, ensure the thermostat is installed the correct way
or you'll risk a blockage (Trust me, it's happened to me tongue.gif) and also seal the
lower connecting coolant line with a gasket or (make-a-gasket) to prevent any
leakages. smile.gif

Our cars are called Eggs because of the rear. If you were to stand a spire up on it's
hatch with the nose in the air, It kinda resembles an egg. smile.gif Voila' EGG.
Always great to see new members here. We're having image sharing problems currently
as our normal 3rd party provider decided to not provide support anymore without a
huge cost. But we are looking to find an alternative.

And as always http://files.jcink.net/uploads/aspire/welcome.gif

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.:: 1998 Aspire ::. - Current Project - The Red Bean

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