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» New user! Help with iacv, bearing, smoking exhaust
moisesanguiano
 Posted: Aug 10 2017, 06:23 AM
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Hi all! First off I would like to thank you all for the help ive gotten from reading through this forum. It has helped me very much with my new (used) car. Now then, some background. I recently learned how to drive stick, and i just had to get a stick car. So after some looking through craigslist, letgo, offerup etc, i came across a 1997 Aspire, 4 door hatch in red. For $600 i couldnt say no so i snatched it up and drove it home. Fast forward about 2 months to present day, ive done 2 oil changes, new plugs, cleaned out egr and idle air vavle, stripped and cleaned out top half of intake manifold, couple of seafoam treatments, cold air intake, new tires, new battery, new speedo cable, shifter bushings, new thermostat and just replace one of the rear wheel hubs cause my last one somehow locked up while i was driving and fused the spindle, wheel bearings, and brake drum together. The car drives alot better than i thought it would ever run, but there are a few minor issues i need help with. First one is my idle air control valve. Its throwing CEL code P0505. It seemed to have worked fine when i first got the car (i live in california, and it passed smog surprisingly), but about 2 weeks ago, when the cel first came on and threw the code, i noticed the iacv intake hose separated from the main intake hose/boot. So i patched the hose, and that same day i also installed the cold air intake, in which i actually took off the stock air box and attached a cone air filter to the MAF. Well about two days later, the code came back. I thought that maybe the cold air intake was throwing off the iacv (maybe not enough vacuum since there was too little resistance, idk tongue.gif) so i put the stock air box back on. Sure as sh*t, 2 days later the code came back. Another thing i should add, code P1797 would come on once in awhile along with p0505, but it hasnt came on for a while, so im not really worried about that one (unless they're connected?) I cleaned the iacv a few more times, but everytime i clear the code, it comes back a day or two later. Another issue, the car is throwing out smoke from the exhaust. It smokes more when started cold, but once it warms up, it only smokes when i hit the gas and rev it up high. The smoke isnt thick, and it seems to have a blue tint to it, so im going with its burning oil. Ive narrowed it down to valve seals or piston rings. Ive already got the seals, so ill be installing them soon anyways, but i would like input from you guys with your opinions. Im also leaking coolant from what i believe is the water pump, but ive had no luck taking off the crank pulley to get the timing belt off to get to the water pump. I put in some stop leak to minimize the leaking, but at this point im probably going to take it to a shop and have them put in the water pump if I can't figure out a way to take off that darn pulley. Also, im getting a loud humming noise coming from the front end when i go around 30+ mph. I suspect one (or both) of the front wheel bearings are going out, but again would like to hear what you guys have to say. Those are some of the main issues i want to try to work on. Any and all input is appreciated. Thanks again everyone!

One more thing. Random question, but why is the Aspire nicknamed the egg? Haven't figured that one out haha. rolleyes.gif
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Tdk420
 Posted: Aug 10 2017, 08:33 AM
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Welcome to the forum sounds like a cool buy the crankshaft pully bolt is not fun I use a big ###### 3/4 electric impact with like 700 ft pounds it works every time !

Check your vacuum lines for cracks or splits and check your charcoal canister t might cause your cel prob good luck and get some pics of the car up

Tdk420

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moisesanguiano
 Posted: Aug 10 2017, 02:36 PM
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Thanks for the reply Tdk420! Ill check the canister. Thats one on the passenger side firewall right? And how do i go about getting pics up? Looks like i need a photobucket
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Blurple95
 Posted: Aug 10 2017, 05:48 PM
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For some reason, these little cars are a bit hard on wheel bearings. There is a backing plate that sometimes gets left off when changing them out at a shop, and if that happens they'll go out super-duper quick again.

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I don't have an Aspire anymore, but I still love 'em!

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moisesanguiano
 Posted: Aug 10 2017, 08:31 PM
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Blurple95, i did read up on those backing plates/ shims for the front bearings. Whenever i get around to changing them out, ill keep a lookout for those. Tdk420, i checked the canister and all the lines seem fine. Theres a barbed tee with an open end coming up from the bottom of the car, but i think i read on here somewhere that one of the ends should be open. I checked on the iacv again. When its plugged in (after warm up) the idle is a little high. Sometimes itll settle down to normal, but most of the time its high. When its unplugged, idle stays consistently normal, but when i turn the ac on, the idle drops and the engine almost stalls, but doesnt. So today, i took off the iacv intake hose where it meets the main intake hose. When the iacv is plugged in, the iacv hose pulls lots of air into it, but when its unplugged, it still pulls air but not as much. Is that normal? Im thinking maybe the valve is stuck open? Would you guys advise taking the whole iacv apart to do a thorough cleaning? One of the screws looks like it needs one of those specialty bits but havent tried removing it. I really wanna trying everything i can to salvage this iacv before heading down to pick n pull to grab another.
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Glow_Mouse
 Posted: Aug 11 2017, 06:04 PM
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Wow a novel and a half to read. Uhm well first off, welcome
Secondly, To remove the crank shaft pulley, I used a breaker bar
an the car itself to crack that sucker off. Because the crank nut is
a reverse thread and it appears once you try to turn er' off , just
turns the shaft itself. Attach the breaker bar, You'll want the bar fairly
long so it wedges between the car and the ground. Get in the spire, turn
it over slowly, like two or three turns of the key and listen for the nut
to go crack. Then get out and check, if it isn't loose, go again.

Now with your timing, On the cam pulley, there are 2 carve marks. Ensure
that these marks are at positions 12' and 3'. In o'clock going clockwise of
course and the crank shaft will have one marking so ensure that is at position
12' too. Be very careful removing the keyway off the spline. Normally they
should simply come out with a bit of a shove but mine was so darn tight I
had to get rough with it. Rip that water pump off, get a new one with gasket,
check your radiator hoses, ensure the thermostat is installed the correct way
or you'll risk a blockage (Trust me, it's happened to me tongue.gif) and also seal the
lower connecting coolant line with a gasket or (make-a-gasket) to prevent any
leakages. smile.gif

Our cars are called Eggs because of the rear. If you were to stand a spire up on it's
hatch with the nose in the air, It kinda resembles an egg. smile.gif Voila' EGG.
Always great to see new members here. We're having image sharing problems currently
as our normal 3rd party provider decided to not provide support anymore without a
huge cost. But we are looking to find an alternative.

And as always http://files.jcink.net/uploads/aspire/welcome.gif

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Raising the bar for compact cars around the world.
.:: 1997 Aspire ::. - Revived Project - Glowspire
.:: 1998 Aspire ::. - Current Project - The Red Bean

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www.FordAspire.com - The World's #1 resource for aspire/avella & 2nd Gen Festiva
"Why Do you own so many bodykit parts?"
"I like to change the look of my car like i change underpants....everyday!"

Glowmouse's 97' Glowspire Build
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My DIY Wing Conversion How-To
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moisesanguiano
 Posted: Aug 23 2017, 08:28 PM
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Sorry for not coming back on for a while guys. Thanks for all that info on replacing the water pump Glow_Mouse, I havent gotten around to it yet, but one of these days i will laugh.gif Okay so ive got updates. I finally fixed the idle air control valve issue. I took off the iacv and took it apart to give it a good cleaning. I ended up using a dremel to sand down that little point in the middle of that special torx bit. It didnt look too bad in there, but i still blasted it with carb cleaner. Afterwards it was still acting up, so i messed with the adjustment screw on the back of the iacv, that along with the idle adjustment screw, until i got a good idle. No more cel light and code! But now ive discovered another issue (among others rolleyes.gif ) I ran some mpg tests with the help of my trip odometer, annnd yeah.. im averaging about 16mpg combined, but mostly city. After reading through some posts on here, now i know 16mpg is pretty f***ing bad. There are other guys here that are averaging mid to high 20's on their mpg, and apparently thats really bad, but havent seen anyone as low as 16. I already have a fuel filter on the way, and there doesnt seem to be drag in the brakes since the car doesn't lose speed that fast when i coast. But i have been hearing a high pitched squeal/ whine from the back i believe, so ill check that out. I know the possible bad valve seals/ piston rings isnt good for mileage, but c'mon 16mpgs??? Does this sound right at all? Any help is appreciated. Thanks again!
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Glow_Mouse
 Posted: Aug 24 2017, 04:12 AM
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There are a huge number of things that can hinder fuel economy. Filtration, exhaust output, over injecting, bad or faulty sensors, too larger wheels, tight brakes or brake shoes. (Recently changed out my brake shoes made them loose enough to move freely but not enough so there's play)

Upgrade your ignition system and reset your computer. Take the positive off the battery and let the computer reset overnight. smile.gif

--------------------
Raising the bar for compact cars around the world.
.:: 1997 Aspire ::. - Revived Project - Glowspire
.:: 1998 Aspire ::. - Current Project - The Red Bean

user posted image
www.FordAspire.com - The World's #1 resource for aspire/avella & 2nd Gen Festiva
"Why Do you own so many bodykit parts?"
"I like to change the look of my car like i change underpants....everyday!"

Glowmouse's 97' Glowspire Build
Glowmouse's 98' Red Bean Build
My DIY Wing Conversion How-To
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moisesanguiano
 Posted: Aug 24 2017, 05:22 AM
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Okay ill give that a shot. By the way, if i do indeed have a valve seal and/or piston ring problem, wouldnt putting in new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, etc. kinda be useless until i correct the issue?
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Glow_Mouse
 Posted: Aug 24 2017, 03:13 PM
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Unfortunately, yes. The rings seal everything and your valve seals would definitely need replacing first. Big job I know but try doing that first and take it for a run then look at everything else afterwards.

--------------------
Raising the bar for compact cars around the world.
.:: 1997 Aspire ::. - Revived Project - Glowspire
.:: 1998 Aspire ::. - Current Project - The Red Bean

user posted image
www.FordAspire.com - The World's #1 resource for aspire/avella & 2nd Gen Festiva
"Why Do you own so many bodykit parts?"
"I like to change the look of my car like i change underpants....everyday!"

Glowmouse's 97' Glowspire Build
Glowmouse's 98' Red Bean Build
My DIY Wing Conversion How-To
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moisesanguiano
 Posted: Nov 8 2017, 05:34 AM
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Alright, its been a while, but ive got updates. So i finally got around to replacing the valve seals, but its still smoking. Not as much when the engine is up to temp, mostly when engine is cold. Oddly enough, theres no smoke at first at cold start, not until i rev the engine. Even the tiniest rev makes smoke come out the tailpipe. As long as i dont press down on the gas at start up, it wont smoke. Another thing i found out, when i put it in gear and take off, the car seems to bog down a bit, then pick up, then bog again on and off till about 2-3k rpms in 1st and 2nd gear, again only when the engine is cold. So the other week i was messing with the distributor, and advanced the timing a bit. Woah what a difference! Bogging went away and i had noticeably more power than before. The dist. adjustment sparked my interest, so i bought a timing light to see where my timing was at. Turns out my timing was a bit retarded where it was before, and when i had advanced it, it was maybe around 15-20 degrees btdc. So i put it at 10 deg. Btdc, and the bogging came back. Not as bad as before, but definitely there. So right now i have the timing advanced as far as it'll go without pinging. Is this safe? Thoughts? This past weekend i replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, timing belt, water pump, and oil pan gasket (turns out it was leaking). Also checked compression a while back, came up good. After all that, it still smokes. http://files.jcink.net/uploads/aspire/headscratch1.gif looking at the smoke, now i cant really tell if its blue or a light gray. This has me thinking that the smoke might be caused by running really rich (which explains the bad mileage). Speaking of, i replaced the upstream O2 sensor a few weeks back, which did help a bit, but was still getting bad mpg (went from 16 to about 19-20ish). After adjusting the dist., i averaged 24mpg. So at least mileage is getting better, but not where i want it to be. Anyways sorry for the long post, but at least im being as descriptive as possible instead of leaving out potential important info tongue.gif let me know what you guys think, and again any and all input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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moisesanguiano
 Posted: Nov 13 2017, 12:31 AM
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Another thing, i took off the upper intake maifold again since i first got the egg, and it was covered in oil again. Back when i first took it off, it was completely caked with oil, sludge and whatnot. This time, the inside was coated with oil, nothing too bad, but it was significantly worse around the pcv hose inlet. It was actually starting to get cake-y again around there. So it looks like the pcv valve is picking up quite a bit of oil. I figure thats probably why my egr keeps getting gunked up with oil pretty quick (dont know if ive already mentioned that issue yet). I read online that some people make an oil catch can using an air compressor air oil separator/filter, and attach it to the pcv line, so i went ahead and did that today. So far no oil in the filter but ill keep an eye on it. Also, i read somewhere in the forum that the hose opposite from the pcv, the one that goes from the valve cover to the main intake tube, is supposed to bring in air FROM the intake into the valve cover, so that it circulates in the valve cover and is pulled out by the pvc line. I always thought the intake sucked air out of the crankcase through that line into the intake. So i took off the hose to see whats going on. There's crankcase pressure coming out of the valve cover side. When i rev the engine there seems to be less air coming out, then goes back to pushing out more air at idle. Is there something wrong or does everything seem fine? Well minus the pcv oil issue, im guessing thats from excessive blow-by right?
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Glow_Mouse
 Posted: Nov 13 2017, 12:55 AM
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Pretty much. Blow by blow. Oil catch can = win. That sounds like a chronic problem,
Well it may seem complicated and confusing but the crank case is designed to SUCK
air in from the main intake. I put a breather on my head cover to cancel it out completely
from the main intake. Thus making the air injection system to the crank case completely
independent.

Remember, the crank case needs to have some pressure there to build power but if the
head is cracked or the cylinder walls have worn out then that can add to the bigger
picture of problems. It all comes down to the previous owner and how hard they drove
the spire. But try adding an oil catch can and a head cover breather to start with. I had
the same issue with the glowspire but I added a breather and it fixed a lot of the oil
splatter problems I was having. Both spire's run clean without any smoke, so it would
seem to me that crank case oil is getting sucked into the cylinder head via the intake
so that would explain the blue smoke coming out of your tail pipe.

Eliminate that problem and you'll be fine. smile.gif http://files.jcink.net/uploads/aspire/joshers2.gif

--------------------
Raising the bar for compact cars around the world.
.:: 1997 Aspire ::. - Revived Project - Glowspire
.:: 1998 Aspire ::. - Current Project - The Red Bean

user posted image
www.FordAspire.com - The World's #1 resource for aspire/avella & 2nd Gen Festiva
"Why Do you own so many bodykit parts?"
"I like to change the look of my car like i change underpants....everyday!"

Glowmouse's 97' Glowspire Build
Glowmouse's 98' Red Bean Build
My DIY Wing Conversion How-To
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moisesanguiano
 Posted: Nov 13 2017, 02:37 AM
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Thanks for all the advice Glow_Mouse. That breather you mentioned, you're talking about a small air filter to replace the existing hose right? If so, would you happen to know off the top of your head what size ill need? And regarding my timing, is it okay how i left it? Its still not pinging, but i dont know if having it that far advanced will cause issues later on. Thanks!
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Glow_Mouse
 Posted: Nov 13 2017, 06:07 AM
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The inlet is about 3/4". So 19mm or a bit less actually now that I look at it. I'll post
a link.

https://www.speedfactoryracing.net/engine-p...breather-filter

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That's what I use. smile.gif Ever since I put that on my head cover to replace the hose, my spire' runs
perfectly and there's no oil splatter or blue smoke. smile.gif No more intake sucking unwanted oil and
the crankcase stays happy. smile.gif

http://files.jcink.net/uploads/aspire/bunnyd.gif

p.s: You're welcome. smile.gif


As for the timing. Your cam pulley should have markings at 12 O'clock and 3 O'clock. So the
markings should be 90 degrees to the right with the top mark vertical and the horizontal mark
on the right at 3 and the crank at 12 O'clock (Completely vertical to the top so it is pointing up
towards the cam pulley. smile.gif

You are also welcome and nah,as long as you haven't advance past the position of 12 and 1 or in
your case 1 and 4. Becareful not to advance it too far or the distributor will also have to be timed
to compensate for the early strokes of the valves and pistons. http://files.jcink.net/uploads/aspire/banghead.gif

Anything else? just ask. smile.gif

http://files.jcink.net/uploads/aspire/joshers2.gif

--------------------
Raising the bar for compact cars around the world.
.:: 1997 Aspire ::. - Revived Project - Glowspire
.:: 1998 Aspire ::. - Current Project - The Red Bean

user posted image
www.FordAspire.com - The World's #1 resource for aspire/avella & 2nd Gen Festiva
"Why Do you own so many bodykit parts?"
"I like to change the look of my car like i change underpants....everyday!"

Glowmouse's 97' Glowspire Build
Glowmouse's 98' Red Bean Build
My DIY Wing Conversion How-To
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